Here are a couple more photos of my life in Pakistan. The house is a campus home for faculty and staff - and you can see the little bit of American culture over the fence, i.e., a basketball hoop!

The photo of the Prometric Testing Center sign shows where I have been working with the USEFP. The "Metric" is the national standardized test that all students take to attend univeristy, similar to our SAT/ACT. This is where students come to take the test (as well as the SAT, ACT, GRE, GMAT, etc. if they want to study in the United States).

Campus Clean Up

This is one of the amazingly friendly and hard-working staff members on the grounds crew at FC College. He was clearing brush in 115-degree heat and using a cart to haul it away. This is work ethic....

Typical Pakistani Home

This is a fairly typical Pakistani home, with some kids playing chess outside. Since it rained heavily this morning (which threw the city into a mess), the kids were sitting enjoying the cooler, rain-cleaned air. My lungs were enjoing it, too.

Security Revisited - June 16

Today I had my official security briefing - on day 16 in Pakistan. It was delivered to me (with a campus tour) by Lieutenant Colonel Khaqan Mahmood Rana, the current head of security for FC College.

Colonel Khaqan is a pretty amazing man with a unique history - one of a kind in Pakistan, actually. He is a 27-year retired veteran of the Pakistani Army and has lived all over this country (rare for Pakistanis to move that much). He is the only Christian officer to have been permitted to attend Military Intelligence School (based on merit and hard work) and is the only Christian to have been allowed to serve as an ISI (Inter-Service Intelligence) officer.

He noted that there are three reasons why FC College is a target for extremist and terrorist organizations, because: (1) it is a Christian college, (2) it allows co-education (boys mingling with girls), and (3) there are foreigners on campus. He clarified that by "foreigners" he means Americans. Lovely.

20 Pounds Minimum

I have learned that Pakistanis love to eat - and their food is amazing. I've been asked several times if I prefer that American food be prepared for me and I have strenuously objected because the local cuisine is amazing. It's neither Indian nor Asian, but a wonderful hybrid. Today, Sirrah made the the lunch shown in this photo. Everytime I have explained that I do not eat a large lunch or many large meals (rather preferring to "graze" all day long), the next meal will be even larger. If I do not return with an extra 20 pounds around my waiste, I have no idea why....

Tribalism

Today I had the chance to sit and talk to the Provost of FC College (also known as the Vice Rector or chief academic officer), Dr. Marcia Grant. She is an American who has lived all over the world and has her main home in France.

Among other things, we discussed "tribalism" in Pakistan. People often think of tribalism as a term only applicable to indigenous people, but it applies more broadly to all types of social structures (as opposed to individuals) based on religious, cultural, ethnic or other identity factors. It's all about having feelings of identity for your "tribe" in society - like the concept of fraternities and sororities in American higher education.

Pakistan has "tribes" in many ways. Clearly there is the religious context and working at a Christian college the tribalism on campus is felt strongly. There is a sense of peace and calm on campus among those who are Christian - they are with like minded people and have fewer challenges in the workplace. As I've learned, there are also many "sects" in Islam and they tend to affiliate, too. And, there is great ethnic tribalism here among people from various regions across the five provinces in this country. The northerners (in the mountains between India and Afghanistan are very different from the southerners in Karachi - which is not so different from those from Boston and Savannah. In many ways, our countries (and their various tribes) are not that different....

Today in Islamabad

Islamabad, Pakistan (CNN) -- Pakistan's intelligence agency arrested "a few" informants who gave information to the CIA before the raid that left Osama bin Laden dead, a Pakistani intelligence official said Wednesday.

The arrests were addressed during the Friday meeting between CIA Director Leon Panetta, Pakistan army chief Gen. Ashfaq Kayani and Lt. Gen. Ahmad Shuja Pasha, Pakistan's head of military intelligence.

The official, who asked to remain anonymous because he is not authorized to speak to the media, said he did not know the exact number of informants arrested or what date it happened.

Driving in Lahore

June 15 at FC College

For the past few days, it has been "nose to the grindstone" in Pakistan meeting with officials at the university and continuing to work with USEFP and their remarkable students.

Yesterday, I met a delightful young Pakistani woman who just finished her first year at Mount Holyoke College in western Massachusetts. Given the cultural norms here in Pakistan, parents of bright young ladies prefer to send them to single-gender colleges in the United States. She loved her first year (despite the cold and snow in the Berkshire mountains) and is excited to return. Despite working two jobs on campus, she has a 3.75 GPA and is active in co-curricular activities. She has a slight funding "gap" this year (given that tuition rose, but her scholarship did not) and we strategized about how she can fill that gap so that her family will not be overly burdened.

My other focus is on developing alternative sources of revenue for the institution, through partnerships with NGOs, corporations, other universities and non-profit organizations. Thus, far it has been a bit of a challenge given the barriers to working in Pakistan on a general level and the global perception of the risks to partnering with organizations in this country. But, I appreciate a challenge and will meet with the Rector on Monday to discuss several ideas.

On Monday afternoon, I will depart for Islamabad to meet with the Higher Education Council (similar to our national Department of Education) and the USEFP main office staff as well as the in-country representatives of USAID (one of the major funding organizations to FC College).

Seriously....

Today in Lahore was 50 degrees - also known as 122 degrees for Americans. Seriously.
I would write more, but I believe I've melted....

The Birth Lottery

As I tended today to my "summer cold" (which is really another way of saying intense sneezing brought on by the air quality, to which my body has not yet acclimated), I thought a lot about the United States and Pakistan - two nations with obvious differences, but some similarities.

The obvious differences include the climate (have I mentioned that it is really hot here?), geographic location, history and culture. Also, there are the obvious religious differences, given that this is an Islamic nation and America is predominantly Judeo-Christian, but with a Constitution that guarantees religious freedom.

There are some not-so-obvious similarities, too. Yesterday, the head of security for campus invited me to his home to meet his wonderful family, and he said, "People in our countries are really not that different - there are good ones and bad ones in both." That struck me as profound because it is so simple yet so true. Our national media may portray other countries with a broad brush, but the truth here is that the typical Pakistani is not so different from the typical American - we all want a good job, roof over our head, food on our table and for our family and friends to be safe, happy and healthy. The people I have met here are intensely bright, sincere, honest, genuine and exceptionally well-mannered. The women are elegant (in dress, manner, and speech) and the family structure is phenomenally tight - more than we can really comprehend. As I think about the people of America, whom I consider on the whole to be "good" people, so too are the people of Pakistan.

The major difference, I thought, is where we were born. We, as Americans, won a sort of "birth" lottery by having the good fortunate to be born in an advanced and wealthy nation with laws that allow us to live our lives with freedoms. That makes us extremely fortunate on so many levels that we take for granted every day. Consider the First Amendment, Freedom of the Press, and Civil Rights Act of 1964 (protecting us against many forms of discrimination). COnsider being able to visit any website you want on the Internet. These societal benefits do not exist in the same way here as they do in our nation. Or, consider other benefits we have, like the freedom to travel across our nation to different cities as well as the ability to travel across town (in most cities) without the fear of bombs, suicide attackers or violent protests.

So, the next time you play the lottery in your state, remember that as an American, you have already won a global lottery of much more profound proportions.

Karachi School of Business and Leadership (KSBL)

Two years ago, a good friend (Bob Wheeler, see photo) was asked by a group of innovative and powerful business leaders to move to Karachi, Pakistan (the largest city in the country on the southern coast) to launch a new business school in South Asia. Oh, that reminds me to remind everyone - Pakistan is in Asia (not the Middle East) and Pakistanis really appreciate when people remember that detail.

Anway Bob worked at Georgetown, Penn State and UT-Austin in similar program development roles, but this opportunity convinced him to move around the world to launch an innovative new school in partnership with the University of Cambridge in the UK. Bob is now both the Dean and CEO of the institution, but despite a busy schedule, he flew to Lahore this weekend to see me during my stay in Pakistan. Thanks, Bob!

To learn more about KSBL, visit: http://www.ksbl.org/

My House

Here is the outside of the campus home that FC College has provided for me:

Wagah - Berlin Wall of Asia

The Wagah border between Pakistan and India is about 35 minutes from Lahore. It is often called the "Berlin wall of Asia" and is an important crossing for several reasons.

Quick history lesson: Pakistan was once part of India, but they separated and are not the best of friends these days....

I traveled with a few friends (old and new) to this ceremonial border where each evening since 1959 there is a ceremony called "lowering of the flags." There is a very energetic ceremony by soldiers on both sides of the border where they show the pride of their respective nation.

We attended with a few VIPs and were invited to tour the grounds and walk right up to the border (about 12" from the Indian border) and then were invited to a special seating area and offered tea, juice and water (which was great, since it was again extremely hot).

Here are some photos from the ceremony (which was spectacular)....

Security - A Way of Life

In Pakistan, intense security measures are a way of life, even though we as Americans would consider them to be highly intrusive and a huge burden to our lives. Entering campus requires constant security measures, including mirrors placed under the cars to check for bombs (even when the car is a university vehicle and the driver is a 5-year "known" employee). It is simply standard fare. When I arrived, it was alarming; now, it seems normal.

Today, I went to the Pearl Continental Hotel off campus. It is the nicest hotel in Lahore, and I just needed some time off campus to sit and read for a while. The U.S. Consulate approved the hotel as "secure" so it is on the "possibly-safe" list. To get to the lobby, my driver had to go through an initial security gate and was questioned why he was entering. They wrote down his drivers license number and name, and cameras took our photos. He was required to pop his car hood open so they could look at the engine, and mirrors were placed under the car. Then, about 100 feet ahead, we were stopped again at a second check point. We then went through a gate raised for us (manually by an armed guard) at a third check point. To get to the lobby, we had to drive through a mini obstacle course (so vehicles are unable pick up any speed as they approach the hotel) and we arrived at a fourth check point. It was at that check point that I was required to exit the vehicle and walk the rest of the way - about 100 feet to the lobby entrance. At the lobby entrance, I went through a metal detector and had my bag checked and scanned. Then at the point of entering the main hotel area, I went through a second metal detector and another scan of my bag (the kind at airports). Finally, I was in the hotel. This all took about 20 minutes.

I rambled about for a bit, did some people watching, and did a little shopping (great art stores where small paintings are on silk, not canvas or paper). I wanted to see the pool, so I wandered in that direction, only to be required to pass through yet another metal detector manned by an armed guard. Oh, I forgot to mention that the guards at the hotel's entrance were armed too - but not with standard 9mm sidearms; rather, they are armed with machine guns.

I stayed at the hotel for a couple of hours, had a great lunch (and wonderful peach juice) and did some people watching. I was clearly the only "westerner" in the hotel, so I was also the subject of some people watching, too.

The next time you pull into a hotel lobby in the USA - for dinner, to check in, or just to run in and use the restroom, think about how simple it is: simply pull up to within 20 feet of the front door, jump out, run in -- and you're done. Nothing like that standard situation exists in Pakistan, which requires building in an extra 30-45 minutes for every trip - whether to the bank, grocery store, clothing store, or just to run out and grab a bite to eat.

I've included a few photos of the hotel and the security scanners....

USEFP

One of my host organizations is the U.S. Educational Foundation for Pakistan, which is a bi-national entity created to exchange students between our two countries. The USEFP also administers the Fulbright program for those Pakistanis who want to "exchange" with (and to) the United States.

Today, I spent the day with Mehreen and Rukhsana, who both work for the USEFP in Lahore and counsel students about how to apply and enroll at graduate schools in the United States. Mehreen attended Harvard and Rukhsana attended Philadelphia University (then Philadelphia College of Textile Science).

We spent the day counseling families and students about the regions of the United States (e.g., Indiana is very cold and California is warm and both have great schools) and various programs (i.e., the difference between an MBA and a engineering management degree). These kids are extremely bright and so eager to come to the United States, where our educational system is seen as the example for the rest of the world. Their parents are naturally concerned and ask about crime, urban vs. rural areas, costs, how their children will be treated, educational quality, the difference between public and private schools, etc.

All in all, a terrific day. And, they treated me to pizza.

My House

FC College is kind to provide me with housing while I am here in residence. They have a number of houses on campus for faculty and staff, which is a huge benefit since the institution is located in a prime part of Lahore. Here are some photos....

June 8 - Settling In

Today, I spent the morning chatting with two faculty leaders at FC College - in charge of the Center for Teaching Excellence and the business school. Interesting conversations with both. During my conversation with the business school dean, a student suffered health problems and an ambulance had to be called - that was a bit unexpected.

Next, I visited the U.S. Consulate in Lahore for my required security briefing. I met the security team (outstanding individuals) and the Public Affairs Officer (who was wonderfully informative). They explained the risks of living and working in Lahore, but also reinforced that the people of this city are wonderful (which I have found to be the case) and that the city has much to offer. On Saturday, I am going to visit the Old City and the Wagah Border Crossing to India. Wagah is the only "roadway" border crossing of the two nations and every day at sunset there is a changing of the guard ceremony that is supposed to be outstanding and beautiful. A good friend living in Karachi will be traveling up to see me and spend the day.

This afternoon, I spent the day talking about university finance with the CFO at FC College. Most people glaze over at this topic, but we both find it extremely interesting. Since the institution has both an "intermediate" college (akin to the last two years of high school in the United States and required to matriculate to a university) as well as a traditional 4-year baccalaureate program, the financial issues are varied and complicated. When we compared this year's budget to next year's budget, I asked why there was a projected increase of 18% - I wondered what they were adding to the budget next year. The response alarmed me - nothing was added to the budget at all. Rather, the 18% increase simply accounts for the rate of inflation in Pakistan. And to think we as American's complain about a 2-3% inflation rate....

Perhaps the most curious aspect of my day was when I was walking across campus. Two young men ran up to me and asked, "Sir, are you a member of the American Army?" I found this a bit off, which must have shown on my face. They explained that my short hair and manner of walking (with a purpose, like most Americans) indicated a "military manner." I told them that I was not a member of the U.S. military, but was just here visiting on a Fulbright grant. I think they were a bit disappointed because it seemed like they really wanted to chat about our military.

Certainly an interesting day of learning....

Common Street Sign

This is an example of a street sign in Pakistan - both in English and Urdu. I found it particularly appropriate since in 110-118 degree weather, things (and people) tend to slow down....

What is a Fulbright?

So, some of my friends have asked about the Fulbright program and its mission. Here is my attempt at describing it....

The Fulbright Program is an international educational exchange program sponsored by the United States' government. It's goal is to “increase mutual understanding between the people of the United States and the people of other countries.” The Fulbright Program has provided about 300,000 participants with the opportunity to study, teach and conduct research, exchange ideas and contribute to finding solutions to shared international concerns.

The website is www.cies.org (as the administering agency is the Council for the International Exchange of Scholars).

As part of the program, the Fulbright organization assigns scholars (teachers) and specialists (practitioners who may also be teachers) to travel abroad and share their views, research and experience. Individuals apply for the program and, if selected, are awarded a grant to travel abroad and call themselves a "Fulbrighter." I am participating in the Fulbright Specialist Program in the field of higher education management, strategy and financial governance. I was matched with FC College in Pakistan by my own choice - given the work they are doing here and the needs they have for the future.

The Fulbright Program is the flagship international educational exchange program sponsored by the U.S. government and is designed to “increase mutual understanding between the people of the United States and the people of other countries.” With this goal as a starting point, the Fulbright Program has provided almost 300,000 participants—chosen for their academic merit and leadership potential — with the opportunity to study, teach and conduct research, exchange ideas and contribute to finding solutions to shared international concerns.

The Fulbright Program started in 1946 by Senator J. William Fulbright (Arkansas) and is sponsored by the U.S. Department of State’s Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs. “Fulbrighters” can be from the United States, but also from other countries since the program is about the "exchange" of ideas both from and to the United States. The Fulbright Program awards about 7,500 grants each year. I was very lucky to receive one! The Program operates in more than 155 countries worldwide.

So - if you are interested in the program, send me an email and I will explain more!

Today's Lunch

If Sirrah has her way, I willn gain 25 pounds this month...

Men's Hostel

Here at FC College (which is one of the best private institutions in the nation and the only institution in Asia to be invited to join the Global Alliance), the men and women live in "hostels" (the Pakistani name for residence halls) on campus. They are naturally single-gender housing units and all students are under a strict curfew.

To provide a comparison in cost structure. The total fee to live "on campus" in a hostel is about 9,800 PKR in addition to deposits of 3,500 PKR (mess) and 3,000 PKR (room), for a total of 16,300 PKR, or roughly $192 (for the year). The utilities (which students pay) is another 400 PKR per month, which is 4,800 PKR per year, or $56 for the year. Food is an additional cost, but is based on what meals are eaten (as there are no "meal plans" here like in the USA and students pay for what they eat).

FC College Campus, Lahore, Pakistan

Some photos on campus

A small challenge

The power goes out constantly in Pakistan. With little or no warning, all power shuts off for anywhere from 1 minute to 1 hour. Everyone here is so used to it, that nobody blinks when the power shuts off. It was a bit unnerving at first, but one gets accustomed to it fairly quickly. Of course, since my laptop battery is dead, whenever the power shuts off, so does my laptop, which makes writing blog posts interesting....

I'm off to the store now to purchase another laptop battery.

A few noteworthy observations....

Last night I spent dinner with several "expat" faculty members at FC College from a variety of disciplines, including philosophy, sociology, immunology and biochemistry. The dinner was in celebration of Sweden's National Day (i.e., the Fourth of July in Sweden) as one of the faculty members is a proud Swede. The meal was delicious and the conversation really interesting. Most of the faculty came to FC College to contribute in a meaninful way to students and the college itself. There are significant challenges in teaching at an institution like this, including that many students have major challenges in their lives (including money, family pressure, family obligations, jobs, etc.). But, the experience has been educational and enriching for all of those here....

My first meeting today was at 0830 with the CFO of FC College. I walked across campus to meet him and by the time I arrived (after a 10 minute walk), even my ears were sweating. It is supposed to reach 50 degrees Celcius this week, which in American terms is 122 degrees. Even with air conditioning in my home, the weather really "takes it out" of you. Trying to stay cool is a challenge. A friend told me to wear plenty of sunblock. My response was that I did not need to wear any because I am never in the sun - people here simply do not go outside during the daytime and when then do, they are fully clothed and have hats or cloth on their heads (as do I).

A few cultural "norms" have been a challenge for me. For example, it is considered impolite to extend a hand to shake with a female. It is also impolite to look a female in the eyes, which makes direct conversations interesting. One must wait for a female to extend her hand in greeting, at which point it is fine to shake hands. This only happens about 10% of the time (and normally only with those Pakistani women who have traveled or studied in the United States).

I met with students here yesterday and they are wonderful - open and smart. Many would like the opportunity to study in the United States or Europe, so on Thursday and Friday I have been invited by the US Educational Foundation Pakistan (USEFP) to meet with student groups and chat about the differences in educational institutions and regions in our country. I am excited to meet with them and hear their questions and perceptions.

There is one tradition here that I love and which my Aunty Joan would endorse fully - tea drinking. The tea here is outstanding and the drink it liberally. Each moring at about 10am and in the afternoon about 2 or 3pm they stop working for 20 minutes and enjoy a cup of tea. It is a great way to stop, breath, and enjoy a few moments with colleagues....

David James - A Driver Extrordinaire

David James is the Rector's driver (and is helping me navigate the streets of Lahore while I am here visiting). He is one of the kindest, friendliest people I have ever met. I suspect that many people (especially Americans) do not pay David James much heed -- as he is quiet, unassuming and a bit bashful. But, since I am an "uber" extrovert and love talking to everyone from all walks of life, I can't help talking to David James every opportunity I get -- because I sensed when I met him that he has a lot to say based on the lifetime of experiences worn in wrinkles on his otherwise gentle face.

David James is an expert driver - and it is difficult in Lahore, where the highways and side streets are riddled with every type of transport possible (including cars, trucks, taxis, donkey carts, donkeys without carts, motorbikes, scooters, bikes and, yes, even pedestrians on the highways). Oh, and the lines on the roads mean absolutely nothing in Pakistan. If there is a navigable passageway between a sidewalk and a donkey cart, David James can successfully pass through it with ease and without even a scratch. I've come to trust James' skill and choose simply not to look at the road ahead....

David James has been a professional driver for 34 years, one year less than he has been married. He explained that his marriage was "arranged" by his mother and his wife's mother (and arranged marriages are still very common in Pakistan, in roughly 70% of cases). When he met his soon-to-be wife, he fell madly in love and wanted to marry her immediately, but her family said, "No, you must wait three years so that we can save up for a proper wedding and dowry," which is customary in Pakistan. James objected and told her family that he would pay for the wedding himself because he loved her too much to wait. This is chivalrous and romantic for certain, but it was also a cultural risk since there was the possibility of insulting the family of the bride.

They have been happily married for 35 years and have seven children (5 girls and 2 boys). Three of his five girls are married and he is eagerly awaiting the marriages of the other two.... One of his daughters is a student at FC College and is studying business, but James hopes that she marries quickly after graduation. David James also has 8 grandchildren whom he adores and they all call him "Papa," which he indicates can be quite noisy when they all seek his attention.

David James is amazing in many ways. For example, he has no formal education, but is fluent in four languages (English, Punjabi, Urdu and Hindi). He has worked for every major U.S. and International agency possible, e.g., United Nations, USAID, U.S. Embassy, and has been stationed all over the region - Afghanistan, Iraq, Iran, India, Pakistan, and Syria. He has lived and worked abroad without his family - for upwards of 2-3 years at a time. And, he is proudly Catholic, which he states with complete conviction, even knowing that such an assertion in public in a Muslim country could result in violence. David James told me of the days when Karachi, Pakistan and Afghanistan were amazing places to live and work, but that he would never go back to either because of the sectarian "targeted" killings and terrorist threats, especially to Christians.

When I meet someone like David James, who has an amazing history, peaceful perspective and vision as well as a host of experiences that make him a deep and complex person, I cannot help but realize how we underestimate this region of the world -- and all it has to offer us as Americans. David James invited me to have dinner with him and his entire family and I sensed that was not an invitation that is extended to many foreigners (since people at FC College were a bit surprised when I mentioned the invitation). I am absolutely eager to meet the rest of his family and experience a meal with them - I have a feeling that above all the yelling for "Papa's" attention, it will be an amazing experience....

The Food and Economics

This is a photo of one of the meals prepared for me by my personal cook (Sirrah), who I hired to help me for the month since I am normally "challenged" when it comes to cooking and even more so when it comes to preparing meals in a foreign land. She is amazing. These potato cakes were some of the best I have ever eaten and she prepares them to not only taste great, but to look amazing too. My friend (and renowned Atlanta-based "foodie Sarah Pearse would love my cook and would find the food in Pakistan to be first rate. Come visit Sarah - you would love it!

Now, a bit about economic differences between Pakistan and the United States. Sirrah is the wife of the Rector's driver (James - who is amazing) and helps with ExPats who are here on temporary assignments. Sirrah comes each day and cleans the house, washes and irons all of my clothing, prepares my lunch and dinner, and organizes everything. Quite simply, she is fantastic - and she does all this in some of the most beautiful dresses (Shalwar Qameez, which are long, loose fitting tunics and an amalgamation of the dresses worn by the ancient Persians). But, the economics are quite different. FC College negotiated the rate that I would pay for Sirrah's services for the month and when I asked what the charge would be, I was told 10,000 PKR for everything - which amounts to $117 for the month, or $3.92 per day (roughly $1 per hour for the 4 hours she spends here each day). Amazing differences in economics. And, yes, Sirrah can expect a very large American "tip" at the end of my stay that will equate to a multiple of her negotiated earnings for the month....

Too hot to touch....

It gets so hot in Lahore that the doorbells outside homes are shaded permanently with covers (see photo) - otherwise they get too hot to touch in the summer months....

How Hot is Hot?

Today in Lahore, Pakistan it reached 47 degrees Celsius - or 116.6 degrees Fahrenheit.

That is hot.... Ouch.

A bit about Lahore....

Lahore is on the far eastern border of Pakistan - along the Indian border. In other words, as far from Afghanastan as one can get without being in India. Lahore is the capital of the Punjab Province (there are 5 provinced in Pakistan) and the second largest city after Karachi (which is a huge port city in the South).

Lahore is known as the cultural center of the country nad has survived the empires of the Shahi kingdoms (11th century), Ghaznavids, Ghurid State, Mughal Empire (16th century), Sikh Empire and was the capital of Punjab under the British Raj (19th and 20th centuries). This city has been the "traditional capital" of Punjab for 1,000 years (which puts American history into perspective. An interesting tidbit is that the Lahore Zoo is the world's third oldest zoo.

I am fortunate to be in Lahore, as it has the largest number of educational institutions in the country. Lahore's population officially is 6.3 million, but government estimates now indicate the city has 10.0 million. It is one of the 40 most populated urban areas in the world.

There are three main languages spoken - English, Urdu and Punjabi. Interestingly, although Punjabi is the native language and the most widely spoken language in Lahore, it has no "official status" as English holds the official status in government and is the preferred language for business. About 86% of Lahorites speak Punjabi and 10% speak Urdu (the remainder are Seraikis).

Family Lunch - June 5

Today, I had the pleasure of visiting with Asim Albert's family and was able to have lunch with them. They made an incredible vegetarian lunch (for yours truly, although they will tell you that Pakistanis love to eat meat).

The group included Asim, his wife and their two children, as well as Asim's parents and two younger cousins as well as two young American's (Benjie and Brian) who are living with them for one year on a foundation grant that allows them to work in social enterprise organizations (clients of their home companies). It was a terrific and hospitable way to spend the day off campus and get to know a local family from Lahore.

After lunch, I went to the airport to collect my baggage (which was flown in from Islamabad). But, because of bureaucratic complications between two airlines (Pakistani International Airlines (PIA) flew the bag to Lahore for me, but Etihad actually lost the bag, so PIA would not release it to me - they need to transfer it to Etihad, which had no staff present at the airport), I was unable to collect it today. Perhaps tomorrow....

Incidentally, the common name for PIA is "Prayer in the Air Airlines." Nice. I wasn't aware of that prior to flying PIA from Islamabad to Lahore....

Donkey Carts

Here in Lahore, transportation mechanisms vary considerably - from Range Rovers and Mercedes to donkey carts and bicycles - all in the same lanes and streets....

A Few Interesting Items

I learned quite a bit today about higher education in Pakistan and specifically about FC College. This institution is remarkable in so many ways. As a "Christian" college in a Muslim nation, it educates "minorities" who not have other comfotable places to learn.

The country is comprised of only about 5% religious minorities whereas FC College has roughly 750 Christian students in a student body of over 5,000 - or about 15% of the campus (triple the national average). This institution has a long history and reputation to provide an outstanding education for those of all faiths - to come and learn without fear.

And, the current Rector is committed so strongly to the mission of this institution that he travels and works globally to educate others about the value of an institution like FC College to a country like Pakistan. And, he left retirement in the United States to come and work here!

To learn more about this amazing place, visit: http://www.fccollege.edu.pk/

Arrival in Lahore - June 3

Upon my arrival (still without luggage and beginning to have a bit of an odor, I must admit), I was greeted by James (our driver) and Assim, the Chief Fiscal Officer for Foreman Christian College (or “FC College” as it is known in Pakistan). The driver could not find our car, which was a bit comical since I figured my bag travel luck had followed me to Lahore and the car had been stolen. No worries, though, he eventually found it. Lahore is a bit warm – about 110 degrees in the sun. I was told it was a normal or cool day. Lovely.

On the way to FC College, we stopped so that I could use an ATM and get some local currency. Wasn’t I surprised when the ATM machine took my bank card with a polite note, “come back in two days if you want your bank card back.” Double lovely. No luggage, no clean clothes and now no money or bank card. Well, life is all about how you handle adversity, right? Fortunately, I was able to have some money wired from the United States to hold me over until I can get my bank card back in hand (hopefully tomorrow).

My new host, Roy Menzez, the office manager for FC College’s Rector (i.e., President in American terms) escorted me to the local bank to get my wired funds and then took me shopping to get some clean clothes (as I believe my scent was making him a bit lightheaded). I purchased two nice dress shirts, two pairs of slacks (which were fitted for me on the spot), socks, t-shirts and underwear for 9,000 PKR (roughly $100). I was waited on by three nice salesmen and was treated very well. The store had an amazing selection of clothing and traditional Pakistani garments (which look amazingly comfortable to wear). With new clothes in hand, I traveled back to campus to have dinner with the Rector.

The Rector, Dr. Peter Armacost, is an American who served as the president of Eckerd College in Florida and has had a distinguished career in higher education, having served on a number of boards (including the SunTrust board) and having worked all over the world. His wife, Dr. Mary Linda Armacost, is an amazing woman who has served as the president of two American colleges and is now on faculty at the University of Pennsylvania. Peter invited me to dinner at his home, preceded by a couple glasses of scotch. A wonderful evening all around….

Peter escorted me to my on-campus house – House # 27. It is a one-bedroom home with a full kitchen, living room, dining room, large bathroom, backyard, screened porch, and laundry room. And, of course, is surrounded by high walls and gates, which I was instructed to lock with a padlock before I went to bed.

All in all, an interesting trip thus far…. Tomorrow, we will try to retrieve my ATM card at the local bank and then take a tour of campus. I’m excited to get to work.

Traveling to Lahore - June 3

Awoke at 9:00am (and did not sleep much). Interviews this morning with the USEFP staff and then off to the airport. The staff were terrific and friendly and made me a wonderful cup of chai tea. The office is run by an American woman from Seattle who has been living in Pakistan for 20 years. We discussed the educational system in Pakistan and the country’s desire to westernize its universities. Traditionally, students attend school until the American version of grade 10, and then complete two years of “intermediate” studies before continuing on to university. Many institutions are single-sex at the intermediate level. There are roughly 70 colleges and universities in Pakistan and in the last five years the government has been funneling money into higher education.

The quirk of the system is that students need to “track” themselves in grade 9 for their university plans. If a student hopes to study engineering at university, then he or she must take a series of courses in grade 9 that will prepare him or her for intermediate studies in the correct field of engineering – or no university will offer and acceptance. This places tremendous pressure on students at a young age and, in general, allows parents to make the decision for them about a future career. There is a tremendous lack of social scientists in the country, too. They are in need of more faculty willing to focus on social sciences and humanities.

I get the sense that higher education is a dream of many in this country and, although very inexpensive by American standards (e.g., 28,000 PKR for a semester or $329 for tuition and fees and about $50/month in living expenses), it is beyond the reach of many young Pakistani students. The desire to travel to the United States for college is intense, and the competition is fierce for scholarships. For those who are unable to attend college, there are fewer options than in the United States. There are really no “community colleges” or polytechnics for job training as there are in other countries. The USEFP staff explained that many students who do not attend “intermediate” or university end up following a life of crime as the “forgotten” population.

I saw some of these forgotten youngsters on the way to the Islamabad airport. At an intersection, a young (and beautiful) mother with a baby approached the car begging for money. My driver and USEFP host instructed me not to roll down the window or give any money. They yelled something in Urdu, but the young woman persevered. It was such a heart-drowning experience to see her and her baby, clearly hungry, but unable to help (for fear that opening the car door or window would result in violence since there were other beggars at the intersection as well). I was most struck by her eyes – amazingly beautiful brownish/green eyes and a beautiful face. I thought for a moment that the only thing separating her from poverty and working as a wealthy fashion model was a bit of luck….

I made it to the airport and had to make it to the gate on my own. Unless you are a ticketed passenger, you cannot enter the airport at all – even to the ticket purchasing area. There was an armed guard at the door (and the “armed” part was a machine gun). I received my ticket (courtesy of the USEFP Office) and made it to the gate – having to go through two more security check points and a full bad search. In Islamabad, they tag all bags (even your carry-on) and you cannot board the plane without showing the tag for each and every bag you are carrying. Wild, but thorough.

Once I got to the gate, I was on my own in a sense – none of the announcements are in English. I found a nice woman who helped me to the correct gate and plane and boarded the prop plane for the 50-minute (bumpy) flight to Lahore. My USEFP colleague told me that “you have not lived until you have visited Lahore,” which is considered the social and arts center of Pakistan.

Arrival in Islamabad

The trip from Abu Dhabi was long and my flight arrived into Islamabad at about 3:00am. Customs was pretty easy given that I had already obtained my visa – single-entry only, so no leaving the country and re-entering. I had hoped to travel into India on this trip (as the boarder is only 15 miles away), but that will have to wait for another trip.

Waiting for luggage produced what seems to be a consistent result given a few recent trips – I made it, but my luggage did not. We shall see if it arrives at all. If not, I will have lots of new clothes made in Pakistan….

My contacts from USEFP (United States Educational Foundation in Pakistan), which coordinates Fulbright travelers into Pakistan) were at the airport. A driver and Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto (same family name as the former governor and also the name of the Islamabad airport). Zulfiqar is pretty interesting. He studied music anthropology at university (in Islamabad) and has only visited the United States once – to Austin, Texas, the music capital of the country! We drove to the USEFP “safe house” in Islamabad where I would be able to crash for a few hours before having to travel to Lahore later today.

The ride to the house was interesting. It was pitch black on the highway – no street lights. There were a few trucks on the road and a random car here and there. One small truck was broken down on the highway – stopped right in the middle of the road – no shoulders to pull over. We came upon our first security police check point with barricades, barriers (large red and white I-beam looking barriers that were also all over the airport). Armed guard were everywhere and looking into the car windows. I was too tired to be nervous – just wanted to find a bed to sleep in.

We made it to the safe house and pulled into the guarded gates. Two armed guards opened the gates and the house manager greeted us. I was in bed quickly – after hand-washing my underwear and socks, of course. I hope they dry before I have to get up at 9:00am. If not, then I suppose I will just have to deal with it…. There are worse things in life than wearing wet underwear and socks….

Arrival in Abu Dhabi - June 2, 2011

After leaving Austin (2.5 hours late), I landed in Chicago with 30 minutes to get across the airport to the international gates and get a new airline ticket on Etihad Airlines (the national airline of the UAE, United Arab Emirates), make it through security and board the plane. Missions accomplished (with the help of an escort from the airlines).

14 hours later and I am in Abu Dhabi, with a short 2 hours layover before my flight to Islamabad where I will land at 2:30am and meet a US Embassy Official before morning meetings and an afternoon flight to Lahore....

The flight over was a bit cramped. I think that Etihad builds planes for shorter people. My knees touched the seat ahead of me. But thanks to the wonders of Tylenol PM (two of them), I slept like a baby for 8-9 hours.

I clearly am an American in this airport. I stick out like a sore thumb. The cultural experience is terrific though - beautiful women in sari's and men in all white robes. Arabic signs. Islamic music piped across the airport, and prayer rooms throughout for anyone's use. All very different from American airports, but all interesting and amazing. So far, the people I've come in contact with have been friendly and accomodating.

Looking forward to landing in Pakistan and starting the Fulbright work in Lahore....

More to follow.

Currency....

For those who are interested, the Pakistan currency is the Pakistani Rupee - not to be confused with the Indian Rupee. The conversation rate is roughly $1 = 85 PKR.... My flight to Lahore (purchased with 2 days notice) was 4,463 PKR (or about $52).

Day One - June 1, 2011

At the airport ready to travel to Chicago, then to Abu Dhabi, then to Islamabad and then to Lahore. But, I may not make my connection in Chicago since I only have 30 minutes to find my international flight! Oh well, may have to spend a night in Chicago....

Instead of having my security briefing in Islamabad, I will be staying for one night in Islamabad and then flying to Lahore for my briefing. Then on to Foreman Christian College to work with the Rector, Dr. Peter Armacost for a month.

Excited, nervous and ready to learn about Pakistan!